Thermal Fuse Whirlpool Front Load Dryer No Continuity

Topic: Whirlpool Electric Dryer keeps blowing Thermal Cut-Off Fuse  (Read 6852 times)

Customer just contacted me regarding "No Heat" issue on Admiral Electric Dryer (AED4475TQ0) made by Whirlpool that I repaired 2 weeks ago with same issue (replaced Thermal Cut-Off & Hi-Limit Thermostat) and after repair the Heater Element was cycling On & Off a few times so I assumed it was working properly.
The Heater Element had Continuity and wasn't Grounded.
Therefore, could setting the Cycle on Timed Dry with High Heat for 60-90 minutes cause the Thermal Cut-Off to blow?
Otherwise, would Air Flow blockage cause the Thermal Cut-Off to blow?

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Therefore, could setting the Cycle on Timed Dry with High Heat for 60-90 minutes cause the Thermal Cut-Off to blow?

No

would Air Flow blockage cause the Thermal Cut-Off to blow?

Yes

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Restricted air and or bad seals can cause the high limit fuse and or t-stat to trip. Bad seals will let the air be drawn from the seal area instead of the element so the element will overheat. Restricted air will not move enough air through the element and cause the same problem. Check the door seal. I've seen them come off and the customer doesn't notice.

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Make sure the lint screen isn't caked with dryer sheet residue causing the restriction

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Did you check the Dryer Lint Chute Assembly #348368 for lint build up? On all of these always check that and clean it out. How is the drum seal part #W10612022? Is the Duct work clean. Always check that it is cycling on the correct thermostat with a test light or meter after installing 3387134 is the cycling Thermal cut out kit. Was it FSP kit?

« Last Edit: October 01, 2015, 04:39:47 PM by dab147315 »

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 I made a mess of that.

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If it's in a small laundry room, make sure the door is not getting closed. The room will run out of air and not move any air through the element.

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Of course don't rule out that now the element has now burned out.

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I made a mess of that.

Fixed!

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If it's in a small laundry room, make sure the door is not getting closed. The room will run out of air and not move any air through the element.

Dryer is in Hallway Closet so I assume Customer should leave Closet Door open while Dryer is running.

« Last Edit: October 01, 2015, 07:18:08 PM by rockinrobin »

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Make sure the lint screen isn't caked with dryer sheet residue causing the restriction

Thanks, I'll check the Lint Screen to see if water flows through it.

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Go outside and look at the vent outlet. Make sure the damper opens fully and is not stuck. Ive seen a few that were painted shut lol
Also this:

Did you check the Dryer Lint Chute Assembly #348368 for lint build up? On all of these always check that and clean it out. How is the drum seal part #W10612022? Is the Duct work clean. Always check that it is cycling on the correct thermostat with a test light or meter after installing 3387134 is the cycling Thermal cut out kit. Was it FSP kit?

I always clean the lint chute asm. when i replace a t-fuse.

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Did you check the Dryer Lint Chute Assembly #348368 for lint build up? On all of these always check that and clean it out. How is the drum seal part #W10612022? Is the Duct work clean. Always check that it is cycling on the correct thermostat with a test light or meter after installing 3387134 is the cycling Thermal cut out kit. Was it FSP kit?

Yes, it was the FSP Thermal Cut-Off Kit that I used for 1st Repair.
Also, I'm going to see if the new wire connector is still attached to Orange Wire that had a smaller connector for Old Hi Limit T-Stat.
Thanks for the info.

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Of course don't rule out that now the element has now burned out.

Thanks for the info.
I offered to replace the Element while I was there based on the Age of Dryer but customer didn't want to replace it until it burned out.
Therefore, I'll check the Element during 2nd visit.
This is a Condo near UT Campus with 3 Male College Student's and I have a felling they don't clean out the Lint Screen every time so may have Lint Buildup in the Lint Filter Housing/Casing (or Fabric Softener residue on Lint Filter or a clog in Wall Vent that goes to the Roof).

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False Alarm on No Heat issue since the 3 Male College Students didn't clean the Lint Screen/Filter (causing Air Flow blockage) even though I told them too after 1st repair 2 weeks ago.  Obviously they didn't listen but hopefully they listen to their Professor's during Class...LOL
Thanks for all of your input regarding what causes the Thermal Cut-Off Fuse to blow.

« Last Edit: October 02, 2015, 11:53:25 PM by rockinrobin »

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